What Are Closed Comedones? Causes, Skincare Tips, and Common Mistakes
Acne is a common concern for many people, affecting all skin types including oily, combination, and dry skin, and can be difficult to fully eliminate. In this article, K, who is both beauty-conscious and professional, will delve into the specifics of "closed comedones," explain their causes, and provide recommendations for daily skincare, including products that can help with closed comedones.
Causes of Closed Comedones
"Why do I have white dots on my face that are hard to squeeze out?"
"Do these granules look like tiny pimples?"
Our skin secretes oil and sheds dead skin cells daily. Sebaceous glands and skin cells in the pores work to expel these substances through the pores. If there is excessive oil production or abnormal skin cell turnover, these substances may not be expelled properly, leading to clogged pores and the formation of comedones.
WhiteheadsAlso known as closed comedones, these are characterized by pores that are either completely closed or have very small openings, often covered by an abnormal layer of thickened skin.
BlackheadsThese are open comedones with larger pore openings. They oxidize when exposed to air and can mix with dirt, giving them a dark appearance. Essentially, blackheads are oxidized whiteheads mixed with external impurities.
Comedones involve more than just skin oil; they also include other metabolic waste and dead skin cells. The formation of closed comedones typically involves two key issues:
- Excess Sebum Production
- Abnormal Keratinization of Hair Follicle Openings
Another issue sometimes mistaken for comedones is "sebaceous filaments." These are often misidentified as comedones but are not. Sebaceous filaments have open pores, and when squeezed, they release a white substance, which quickly reappears. They do not require special treatment.
How to Remove Closed Comedones? Is Squeezing Comedones a Good Idea?
While it's tempting to quickly address skin issues, rushing can sometimes lead to complications. Since closed comedones are covered by a layer of thickened skin, trying to squeeze them out can damage the skin, cause follicle injury, and potentially lead to inflammation or infection, making the problem worse. Therefore, it's important to avoid improper extraction methods.
Methods for Removing Closed Comedones:
Topical Retinoids
- Retinoids are derivatives of Vitamin A, including retinol and retinoic acid. They promote cell turnover and prevent pore blockages. However, topical retinoids should be prescribed by a dermatologist and are not typically available for over-the-counter purchase.
Topical Mandelic Acid
- Mandelic acid is commonly used to clear pores, promote dead skin cell turnover, and reduce excessive sebum production. It's highly recommended for treating closed comedones. Concentrations range from 5% to 30%, but according to health regulations, the pH level should not be below 3.5, so concentration is just one factor to consider. Pay attention to ingredient combinations and product labeling.
Topical Low-Concentration Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
- AHAs, including glycolic acid, lactic acid, and citric acid, help exfoliate dead skin cells from the epidermal layer. For home use, lower concentrations are recommended, as high concentrations are considered medical procedures and should be performed by professionals. Mandelic acid is a milder, effective option for at-home use.
Daily Skincare Tips for Closed Comedones
Acne is a metabolic byproduct affected by diet, lifestyle, mental state, and environment. To improve closed comedones, in addition to using appropriate skincare products, consider adjusting your diet, gently cleansing your face, and managing stress. Over time, these changes can lead to improvements.
Lastly, K wants to remind you that while skin type is partly genetic, with proper care and avoiding unproven remedies, and by carefully selecting skincare products, your skin can improve. If needed, seek professional medical assistance for treatment. Let's continue to shine together!
References:
Oral isotretinoin therapy for acne vulgaris. UpToDate. Waltham, MA: UpToDate Inc. (Accessed on November 7, 2017.)